Whenever I want to enrich the experience of the day with scents and colors of all kinds, I pass through folk markets, flea markets, antique stores, and the large central markets of Modiano and Kapani. Especially in Kapani, I dive in the basic odors, i.e. those of marketable meat and fish.

I am at the fish market on a Wednesday and I’m having a good time photographing octopus and cuttlefish. I am being observed by an employee from the opposite fishmonger and when he captures my eye, he makes a signal: “Come this way.” As I approach he disappears in the depths of the shop, signaling again for me to follow. Without delay, he sticks the cigarette in his mouth and throws open the cover of a large refrigerator. He bends and, with some effort, stands again with a giant fish in his hands. “See this here bream!” He says. “It goes directly to the Cathedral!”

Who knows what he meant?